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  1. #1
    nickb275's Avatar
    nickb275 is offline Established Member
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    This would be a good place for anyone who needs my help!!

    I am a certified automotive technician of 18yrs exp. I devote much of my time to a website called " BAT Auto Technical - Index "

    I am offering my free help and advice to those who are experiencing difficulties with their cars and would like to have a hand to help them fix the said cars while saving a few bucks. I know some of the guy's here are paying maintenance and don't really have any spare money to keep those cars tip-top. I have a viable means to help you and a great data base for your specific cars needs regardless of makes and models.

    My area of expertise lies in electrical diagnosis and Powertrain management. Don't hesitate to contact me for any info and questions. Remember, the only stupid question is the one that wasn't asked.

  2. #2
    Marx's Avatar
    Marx is offline Administrator
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    Re: This would be a good place for anyone who needs my help!!

    Any good with motorbikes? Hmm?
    The most offensive thing you can do to a feminist is treat her with FULL equality.
    --Just because you're offended, doesn't mean you're right.--


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  3. #3
    nickb275's Avatar
    nickb275 is offline Established Member
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    Re: This would be a good place for anyone who needs my help!!

    Not as proficient, but I can certainly try to help out in that area, I fix snowmobiles and VTT's and motorcycles regularly in the down time I have at my shop.

  4. #4
    nickb275's Avatar
    nickb275 is offline Established Member
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    Re: This would be a good place for anyone who needs my help!!

    If you have an amp meter handy, you can check for dead door actuators or power window motors by just hooking up amp clamp to battery, zero it and actuate desired switch. If amps go up and window or lock doesn't work, most likely your actuator or motor are dead. So you don't have to take apart that door to diagnose. If amps stay the same, wiring or switch is most likely the problem, at this point more steps need to be taken for diagnosis. Same goes for current draw. If you suspect battery drain, key off and in your pocket, clamp amp to battery, and remove fuses one at a time until amp draw lowers.

    Want to drain your gas tank without getting gas in your mouth or buying a expensive siphon pump. Get a length of garden hose and drill a 1/4 in hole 8 inches or so back from end that will go into gas can, use compressed air and insert air pistol in hose hole in line with flow of gas to can. Rush air until gas flows to can, stop air flow and the law of physics does the rest until hose sucks air at other end meaning you are now empty and ready to fix that after market GM fuel pump you will be replacing cuz it was cheap.

    Want to replace your valve seals without removing heads, insert a length of rope into spark plug hole and rotate engine untill piston seats the valves with the rope in cyl. Leave a bit out of cyl to remove rope please. As rope and piston hold the valves shut you can now replace those seals one cyl at a time this way. Works very well for 4 cyl mitsubishi engines which are always in need of valve oil seals.

    Looking for a way to clean those caliper guide pin holes without buying costly adapters and tools? Get a large cotter pin and insert a piece of sand paper about 1inch by 3inch into the cotter pin slot with one inch side. Curl the other three inches around itself and install cotter pin into a drill. Use this to remove rust from inside of guide pin holes.

    Gravity bleeding will save you time and you won't end up with old brake fluid and new fluid mixed together, before opening bleeders, install a small can of brake fluid upside down into the master making sure it is well seated. Open all bleeders until clear fluid flows from all of them. Close on bleeder at a time working from farthest wheel to nearest from master. Should have a nice hard pedal and no air if done correctly.

    That oil pan gasket won't stay in place while installing? Install four small cheap tie wraps at four corners, thread bolts loosely in all holes and then cut tie wraps one at a time and thread those bolts next. You are now ready to torque that pesky pan with gasket in correct position and it only cost 50cents worth of tie wraps!!

    Rocks and other road hazards have dented your radiator or condenser fins? Get you old comb out and gently work the dents straight with that cheap black dollar-rama combs.

    Want to air gap a Chrysler crank or cam sensor? Fold a match book in two and cut out a circle the size of the sensor, hold it in place with a small dab of cheap hot glue or something similar. Install by pressing sensor with light pressure in place and tighten bolt. That match book paper will just disintegrate after start up and you will have a perfect air gap. Just like Mo-par does it at the plant.

    Transmission fluid and var sol is the cheap mans rust penetrating fluid. Two parts tranny fluid, one parts var sol, mix together and use in a squirt-er. Bingo, el-cheapo stuff. Works good to.

    Here's a trick I learned at the expense of bloodied knuckles and bringing down all the saints from heaven with foul language and such,

    Volkswagen for years used C-clamps to fix down pipe to exhaust. These clamps are hell to install if you don't have that costly snap on spreader VW special tool. I was about ready to take a 8 pound sledge hammer to this car when an old timer came and patted me on the back, said "come over here a sec." He asks me for these clamps, I hand em over, he reaches into his tool chest and pulls out two wheel studs that I later was told came from a 3/4ton chevy. He puts the clamps in a vise and pries them a bit with a pry bar, inserts the stud and releases tension, they stay spread with the studs in place. He then brings them to this VW and places them in place and with a small hammer whacks out each stud with one small whack for each clip. He then looks over at me and grins. He didn't have to say much after that, I had just spent 1 hour cursing german engineers and this guy installed these clamps in about 2min. This guy was a sort of mentor for me when I was apprenticing, I would watch this guy work and learn, this guy never got pissed off, always seemed calm, and hardly ever had a scratch on his knuckles. I learned a lot from this guy, especially to take time to LOOK at something before diving in head down. Remember, if the company put it together, you can pull it apart!!

  5. #5
    Marx's Avatar
    Marx is offline Administrator
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    Re: This would be a good place for anyone who needs my help!!

    Excellent information, Nick.

    If you like, draw up a fuller article with images (if possible) and we'll see about making it a full article for the front pages.
    The most offensive thing you can do to a feminist is treat her with FULL equality.
    --Just because you're offended, doesn't mean you're right.--


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  6. #6
    nickb275's Avatar
    nickb275 is offline Established Member
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    Re: This would be a good place for anyone who needs my help!!

    Basic Car Audio Electronics
    The above link from BCAE is an awesome site for many electronic checks, I just loved this site when I was trying to get a fix on a sub woofer amp fix. This site has tons of info for the beginner on multimeter checks which can pertain to the automobile and many other subjects. Give it a try if your not familiar with a multimeter (DVM)
    Here is a link for a download of common automotive checks with a DVM. I thought this would be a nice link to have for some ppl who visit this site. Show checks for starters to spark plug wires to voltage drops. Not very technical, but has good basic drawings that may help.
    http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/aut...e/beatbook.pdf


 

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